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Marianne Ehrenfeld remembers the agitated alarm from her father-in-law.
Speaking in his bright European lilt, Czechoslovakian-born Ernie Feld was desperate. Generally maddening, consistently flash-tempered, the crumbling ancestors ancestor and world-class pastry chef said he’d been larboard abandoned in his kitchen.
Ernie’s latest girlfriend, the aftermost in a continued band of emotionally-abused, affronted women, had aloof alone her accessory and absolved out the door.
Now he bare addition appropriate abroad to advice to run his pastry boutique in the dupe alfresco Lake Tahoe.
“Can you come?’ he asked plaintively. “Just for a week?”
As it angry out, Marianne was amidst restaurant managing jobs: Why not accomplish the four-hour drive from Oakland to bond out the old man she alleged “Gramps”?
She ran the abstraction by her bedmate Morde.
He laughed in her face. It would, he said, be like administration a cavern with an annoyed alive bear.
“You’re activity to go advice my Dad? I wouldn’t advance it.”
“No, you’re wrong,” she answered. “I can handle Ernie.”
“You won’t aftermost a day there.”
He had a point, of course, and Marianne knew it.
This, afterwards all, was audacious Ernie Feld, whose arduous discipline and admirable baking abilities helped him survive as a Nazis prisoner-of-war as his admired mother Sarah and adolescent brother Alex, died in the gas accommodation at Auschwitz.
Working beneath the blackmail of death, Ernie had fabricated his delicacies for the ambitious German SS admiral who ran an airport affected alfresco Budapest. He acclimated alone albino bottles to advance the chef for his signature poppy-seed strudels.
Arrogant and calculating, he eventually artifice the Germans and afterwards became a post-war abandon fighter appetite to advice actualize an absolute Jewish state. En avenue to the Middle East, his boatload of displaced war survivors was captured by the British. Ernie and the others again spent two years at an bondage affected In Cypress.
To Marianne, her father-in-law was a crusty, dough-kneading Forrest Gump who’d somehow managed to acquisition his way into history.
Speaking seven languages, he became a frontline attestant to the mid-twentieth century’s above political contest with little added than a rolling pin and a bad attitude.
In Cypress, the artful chef did what he could aloof to survive, siphoning off aliment to actualize delicacies he told on the bastille atramentous market, consistently affairs comestible rabbits out of his dirty, channelled chef’s hat.
His masterpieces fed not alone adolescent inmates but his British captors. Later, afterwards the war, he catered to both an Israeli and Soviet president.
But, decades later, Marianne knew, Ernie was aloof a absolute old man whose personality remained as chapped as an old brace of boots.
And his absolutist ancillary alike best generally in his own kitchen, area he brandished a barbarous iron-will like a abundant skillet.
Many able chefs are awfully temperamental, but Ernie’s behavior generally belted on cruelty: He collection two above wives to tears — and annulment — by the way he belittled them.
He barked his orders, insisting that underlings couldn’t do annihilation right. He tossed out baking claimed blame for the aboriginal perceived offense: the way they done a pan, anointed a baking tray or powder-dusted his adored pastries.
After wives Helen and Shoshana larboard him, Ernie barked and afraid his way through a assumption of girlfriends.
In the old days, aback Ernie ran his own bakery in Oakland, Marianne would him antagonism about on his scooter, consistently dapper, his blue-green eyes about metallic, his smile cock-sure.
Always, there was a altered woman clutching bound at his waist.
She knew anniversary accord was doomed.
Most of the women had been alien from Israel or Eastern Europe; afraid blue-collar workers with bare English abilities who consistently knew their place: accedence to the master, silently constant his agitable tantrums; appropriate or wrong, consistently acquiescent to Ernie’s will.
At Morde’s and Marianne’s pre-wedding party, Ernie threw a five-gallon tub of bloom bathrobe adjoin the bank in a self-induced acerbity at one girlfriend, accoutrement the kitchen in alluvium and silencing the guests.
When anyone criticized his kitchen etiquette, Ernie answered: “That’s the way it declared to be. In the kitchen, the chef is the boss.”
Those women who challenged him were issued their walking papers. Like the Yugoslavian who answered his airtight orders with a bad-tempered “Yes, commandant.”
Like the others, she was issued a alike ticket, told that her casework — in the kitchen, bedchamber or contrarily — were no best required.
Ernie was like a pastry with too-little filling, far beneath candied than hoped-for. But amidst the airs and anger, Marianne knew, he did accept a well-camouflaged bendable spot.
She’d heard the stories.
During World War Two, Ernie had been a approved Kitchen-Schindler, already acceptable Nazi admiral that he bare array of Jewish prisoners from the adjacent affected as administration — far added than he absolutely needed, as a way to save extenuative them from barbarous adamantine activity and conceivably alike death.
In the Cypress camp, he helped body a adit to secretly spirit abounding hundreds of Jewish prisoners to freedom, appropriate beneath the noses of his British captors.
Decades later, Ernie still helped out the desperate.
He assisted Israeli immigrants in earning their blooming cards through abiding assignment in his Oakland bakery, generally autograph belletrist of advocacy so they could acreage bigger jobs.
Ernie was, well, Ernie.
There were alike casual glimpses of a wry faculty of humor.
Once, in cloister to change his aftermost name, he told the adjudicator it was aloof too long, and that be got done spelling E-h-r-e-n-f-e-l-d for new customers, his pastries were burned.
In Lake Tahoe, afterwards bears bankrupt into his bakery, he quipped to a reporter, “Those bears charge be Jewish. They apperceive there’s actual acceptable strudel there.”
Marianne additionally that Ernie had a gnawing weakness.
Despite the array of women, he secretly mourned the accident of his aboriginal wife, Helen, whom Ernie had met in the Jewish attrition camps in Europe afterwards the war.
Like the others, Helen had assuredly befuddled up her easily and larboard Ernie, physically and emotionally drained from the abuse.
Even admitting anniversary remarried, they kept in touch. Ernie was a approved at parties at Helen’s abode and, aback he was single, he consulted her about women he pursued.
“He’s tough,” Helen would say, “but he’s a acceptable man.”
For her part, Marianne had carved out a accord with her father-in-law based on a attentive alternate respect. For starters, she didn’t booty any lip, answering aback aback he launched into his tirades.
Ernie admired Marianne for her pluck. While Morde alone a career as a baker, adage he wouldn’t be bent asleep alive with his father, Marianne admired to baker and Ernie alike asked her for recipes.
Once a while, he alike gave his abrupt approval to her creations.
So that day Ernie called, Marianne absitively to booty a risk.
She’d to go Lake Tahoe and assignment in that tiny kitchen, accept to Ernie’s wartime adaptation belief and his struggles to actualize his dream activity activity in the U.S.
Just maybe, she’d be able to assuredly amount out this abstract kitchen enigma.
She alleged Ernie back.
“I’m coming,” she said.
NEXT WEEK: Growing up in pre-Nazi Europe
John M. Glionna is a Las Vegas-based freelance biographer who chronicles the American West. He’s additionally a above civic anchorman for the Los Angeles Times, based in Vegas, and served as the Seoul agency arch on the newspaper’s adopted desk, area he covered the 2011 Japanese convulsion and tsunami and the consecutive afterlife of North Korean absolutist Kim Jong Il. He has additionally accounting abundantly about California. For added on Glionna appointment his website.
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